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Key Ingredients Guide

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Not sure what niacinamide does, or whether you need retinol or bakuchiol? This guide explains the key active ingredients used in the skin care, hair care and supplements we stock. Each ingredient has a short, plain-language explanation and links to the products on Suppsco that contain it.

Allantoin

What it is: A skin-conditioning ingredient originally found in the comfrey plant and now usually made in the lab.

What it does: It helps soften the skin and keep it feeling soothed and comfortable, which is why it is often added to cleansers, exfoliants and products for sensitive skin.

Good to know: Very well tolerated, and pairs well with stronger actives such as acids and retinoids.

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Aloe vera

What it is: The clear gel or juice from the leaves of the aloe plant.

What it does: It adds lightweight hydration and helps skin feel calm and refreshed.

Good to know: Common in cleansers, toners, after-sun and gentle moisturisers.

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Arbutin

What it is: A brightening ingredient that comes from bearberry and related plants. Alpha-arbutin is the form most often used in skin care.

What it does: It helps reduce the look of dark spots and uneven skin tone with regular use.

Good to know: Works well alongside vitamin C, niacinamide and daily sunscreen.

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Argan oil

What it is: A plant oil pressed from the kernels of the Moroccan argan tree.

What it does: Rich in fatty acids and vitamin E, it helps nourish dry skin and hair and leaves a soft, smooth feel.

Good to know: Found in face oils, body care and hair care.

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Astaxanthin

What it is: A red-orange antioxidant pigment made by microalgae.

What it does: It helps defend the skin against environmental stress such as UV and pollution, and supports a fresher-looking complexion.

Good to know: Often paired with other antioxidants in serums and supplements.

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Azelaic acid

What it is: A gentle acid found naturally in grains such as barley and wheat. Azeloglycine is a related, more skin-friendly form.

What it does: It helps refine the look of blemishes, redness and uneven tone, and gently smooths the skin's surface.

Good to know: Usually well tolerated by sensitive and blemish-prone skin. Use daily sunscreen with any exfoliating product.

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Bakuchiol

What it is: A plant-based ingredient from the seeds of the babchi plant, often described as a gentle alternative to retinol.

What it does: It helps reduce the look of fine lines and uneven texture, with a lower chance of the dryness some people get from retinol.

Good to know: Can be used morning and night, and is a popular choice for sensitive skin.

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Baobab oil

What it is: A nourishing oil pressed from the seeds of the African baobab tree.

What it does: Rich in omega fatty acids, it helps soften and condition dry skin without feeling heavy.

Good to know: Found in face oils, cleansers and body care.

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Biotin

What it is: A B vitamin (vitamin B7) used in hair and skin supplements, and as biotinoyl peptides in some scalp and lash products.

What it does: In supplements, biotin contributes to the maintenance of normal hair and skin. In topical products it conditions the hair and scalp.

Good to know: If you are taking a supplement, tell your doctor or laboratory before any blood tests, as biotin can affect some results.

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Bisabolol

What it is: A calming ingredient found in chamomile.

What it does: It helps skin feel soothed and comfortable and reduces the look of redness.

Good to know: A common partner to stronger actives in products for sensitive skin.

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Caffeine

What it is: The familiar stimulant from coffee and tea, used in eye creams, body products and scalp care.

What it does: It helps reduce the look of puffiness and dark circles around the eyes, and is used in scalp products for fuller-looking hair.

Good to know: Best applied gently with the ring finger around the eye area.

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Carnosine

What it is: A naturally occurring amino-acid compound.

What it does: It acts as an antioxidant and helps defend the skin against glycation, a process linked to the look of dull, less elastic skin.

Good to know: Often found in anti-ageing creams alongside peptides and niacinamide.

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Centella asiatica

What it is: A medicinal herb also known as gotu kola or cica. Madecassoside is one of its key compounds.

What it does: It helps calm the look of redness and supports a comfortable, resilient-feeling skin barrier.

Good to know: A good choice for sensitive skin and after in-clinic procedures.

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Ceramides

What it is: Lipids that make up a large part of the skin's natural barrier.

What it does: They help support the skin barrier, reduce moisture loss and keep skin feeling soft and comfortable.

Good to know: Especially helpful for dry or sensitised skin and when using retinoids or acids.

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Charcoal

What it is: Activated charcoal is a porous form of carbon.

What it does: It helps draw out excess oil and impurities from the surface of the skin and pores.

Good to know: Mostly used in cleansers and masks for oily skin.

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Clay (kaolin and bentonite)

What it is: Natural mineral clays such as kaolin and bentonite.

What it does: They absorb excess oil and impurities, help pores look clearer and leave a matte finish.

Good to know: Used in masks and cleansers. Follow with a hydrating product so skin doesn't feel tight.

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Coenzyme Q10

What it is: Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone) is an antioxidant made naturally by the body.

What it does: In skin care it helps defend against environmental stress and supports a smoother, more energised look.

Good to know: Pairs well with vitamins C and E.

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Collagen

What it is: A structural protein. In skin care it is a moisturising film-former, and in supplements it is used as hydrolysed collagen peptides.

What it does: Topically, collagen helps skin feel hydrated and smooth. Collagen peptide supplements are taken as part of a daily routine for skin, hair and nails.

Good to know: Supplements have not been evaluated by SAHPRA for quality, safety or intended use. Results vary from person to person.

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Copper peptides

What it is: Peptides bound to copper, such as copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu).

What it does: They help skin look firmer and smoother and support the look of a healthy skin surface. In scalp care they are used for fuller-looking hair.

Good to know: Usually best used at a different time of day from strong acids or vitamin C.

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Ectoin

What it is: A protective molecule made by microorganisms that live in extreme environments.

What it does: It helps protect the skin against dryness and environmental stress and keeps it feeling comfortable.

Good to know: Found in sunscreens, after-sun care and products for sensitive skin.

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Fernblock (Polypodium leucotomos)

What it is: Fernblock® is a patented extract of the fern Polypodium leucotomos.

What it does: It helps defend the skin against the effects of sun exposure and pollution, adding to the protection given by sunscreen filters.

Good to know: Used in Heliocare topical sunscreens and in oral capsules. It does not replace sunscreen.

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Ferulic acid

What it is: A plant antioxidant found in rice, oats and other grains.

What it does: It helps stabilise vitamins C and E and boosts their antioxidant protection against environmental stress.

Good to know: Often found in morning antioxidant serums, worn under sunscreen.

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Glutathione

What it is: An antioxidant made naturally by the body.

What it does: In skin care and supplements it helps defend against oxidative stress and supports a brighter-looking complexion.

Good to know: Often paired with vitamin C.

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Glycolic acid

What it is: An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that comes from sugar cane.

What it does: It exfoliates the surface of the skin, helping it look smoother, brighter and more even.

Good to know: Start slowly, as AHAs can make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily.

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Green tea

What it is: An extract of the Camellia sinensis tea plant, rich in polyphenols.

What it does: It acts as an antioxidant and helps skin look calm and balanced.

Good to know: Found in toners, serums, cleansers and scalp care.

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Hexylresorcinol

What it is: A brightening and antioxidant ingredient.

What it does: It helps reduce the look of dark spots and uneven tone.

Good to know: Works well alongside niacinamide and vitamin C, with daily sunscreen.

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Hyaluronic acid

What it is: A sugar molecule found naturally in the skin that holds many times its weight in water. Sodium hyaluronate is its salt form.

What it does: It draws moisture into the skin, helping it look plumper, smoother and more hydrated.

Good to know: Apply to slightly damp skin and follow with a moisturiser to lock in hydration.

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Hypochlorous acid

What it is: A mild acid made naturally by the body's own cells, produced for skin care in very low, stabilised concentrations.

What it does: It is used in facial mists and hydrogels to cleanse and refresh the skin, including around in-clinic procedures.

Good to know: Some hypochlorous products are registered medical devices, so always follow the instructions on the pack.

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Jojoba oil

What it is: A liquid wax pressed from the seeds of the jojoba plant, close in make-up to the skin's own oils.

What it does: It softens and conditions the skin without feeling greasy.

Good to know: Suits most skin types. Also used as gentle exfoliating beads.

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Kalahari melon seed oil

What it is: A light oil from the seeds of the wild Kalahari melon (Citrullus lanatus), native to southern Africa.

What it does: Rich in linoleic acid, it helps nourish and soften the skin while absorbing quickly.

Good to know: Found in face oils and body care.

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Kojic acid

What it is: A brightening ingredient made by fermenting rice and other foods.

What it does: It helps reduce the look of dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Good to know: Use with daily sunscreen for the best results.

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Lactic acid

What it is: An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that comes from milk or fermented sugars.

What it does: It exfoliates gently and adds moisture, helping skin look smoother and brighter.

Good to know: Often gentler than glycolic acid. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily.

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Liquorice extract

What it is: An extract of the liquorice root. Glycyrrhetinic acid and glabridin are key compounds.

What it does: It helps calm the look of redness and supports a brighter, more even-looking tone.

Good to know: Popular in products for sensitive skin and uneven tone.

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Mandelic acid

What it is: An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) from bitter almonds, with a larger molecule than glycolic acid.

What it does: It exfoliates gently, helping refine the look of pores, blemishes and uneven tone.

Good to know: Often chosen for sensitive and darker skin tones. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily.

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Marula oil

What it is: A light oil from the kernels of the southern African marula fruit.

What it does: Rich in antioxidants and oleic acid, it nourishes dry skin and leaves it soft.

Good to know: Found in face oils and moisturisers.

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Melatonin

What it is: The body's own sleep-related hormone, used in skin care as an antioxidant.

What it does: Applied to the skin, it helps support the skin's natural night-time defences against oxidative stress.

Good to know: Usually found in night creams and serums.

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Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

What it is: A form of vitamin B3, also called nicotinamide.

What it does: It helps refine the look of pores, balance oil, even out skin tone and support the skin barrier.

Good to know: Well tolerated by most skin types and easy to combine with other actives.

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Oat (colloidal oatmeal)

What it is: Oat kernel extracts, oat milk and colloidal oatmeal.

What it does: They help soothe and soften dry or sensitive skin and support a comfortable-feeling barrier.

Good to know: Found in gentle cleansers, exfoliants and moisturisers.

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Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)

What it is: Pro-vitamin B5, which the skin converts to pantothenic acid.

What it does: It helps hydrate, soften and soothe the skin, and conditions hair and lashes.

Good to know: Very well tolerated, so it suits sensitive skin and use after procedures.

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Peptides

What it is: Short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins.

What it does: Different peptides act as messengers that help skin look firmer and smoother and reduce the look of fine lines.

Good to know: Usually found in serums, eye creams and anti-ageing moisturisers.

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Phytic acid

What it is: A plant acid found in grains and seeds.

What it does: It acts as an antioxidant and gentle exfoliant and supports a brighter-looking complexion.

Good to know: Often combined with other acids in peels and resurfacing products.

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Polyglutamic acid

What it is: A hydrating molecule made by fermentation.

What it does: It forms a light film that helps hold moisture in the skin, leaving it plump and smooth-looking.

Good to know: Works well layered with hyaluronic acid.

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Polyhydroxy acids (gluconolactone and lactobionic acid)

What it is: Polyhydroxy acids such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

What it does: They exfoliate very gently while also attracting moisture, helping skin look smoother and brighter.

Good to know: Often suitable for sensitive skin that finds AHAs too strong. Use daily sunscreen.

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Probiotics, prebiotics and ferments

What it is: Probiotic lysates, prebiotics, postbiotics and ferments such as lactobacillus and bifida ferment lysate.

What it does: They help support a balanced skin microbiome and a resilient, comfortable-feeling skin barrier.

Good to know: Found in cleansers, serums and moisturisers for sensitive skin.

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Retinal (retinaldehyde)

What it is: Retinal, or retinaldehyde, is a form of vitamin A that works one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol.

What it does: It helps refine the look of fine lines, uneven texture and blemishes.

Good to know: Start slowly, use at night, and use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily. Avoid if pregnant or breastfeeding unless your doctor advises otherwise.

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Retinoids (HPR and retinyl esters)

What it is: Other forms of vitamin A, such as hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) and retinyl esters like retinyl palmitate.

What it does: They help smooth the look of fine lines and uneven texture, usually more gently than retinol.

Good to know: Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, and avoid if pregnant or breastfeeding unless your doctor advises otherwise.

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Retinol

What it is: A form of vitamin A and one of the best-studied anti-ageing ingredients in skin care.

What it does: It helps smooth the look of fine lines and wrinkles, refine texture and even out tone.

Good to know: Start two to three nights a week and build up. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, and avoid if pregnant or breastfeeding unless your doctor advises otherwise.

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Rosehip oil

What it is: An oil pressed from the seeds of wild rose hips.

What it does: Rich in fatty acids and natural vitamin A compounds, it helps nourish dry skin and supports a more even-looking texture.

Good to know: Found in face oils and night care.

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Salicylic acid

What it is: A beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is oil-soluble, so it can work inside the pores.

What it does: It helps unclog pores and reduce the look of blackheads, blemishes and excess shine.

Good to know: Ideal for oily and blemish-prone skin. Start slowly to avoid dryness, and use daily sunscreen.

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Shea butter

What it is: A rich butter from the nuts of the African shea tree.

What it does: It nourishes and softens dry skin and helps reduce moisture loss.

Good to know: Found in moisturisers, body care, lip care and conditioners.

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Snail secretion

What it is: A purified secretion from the Cryptomphalus aspersa snail, used in Endocare and ALLSKIN MED formulas.

What it does: It helps skin look firmer, smoother and more renewed, and supports a comfortable-feeling skin barrier.

Good to know: Found in serums, ampoules and creams.

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Squalane

What it is: A light, stable oil that mirrors squalene, one of the skin's own lipids. Usually made from olives or sugar cane.

What it does: It helps soften the skin and reduce moisture loss without clogging pores or feeling greasy.

Good to know: Suits nearly every skin type, including oily skin.

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Tea tree oil

What it is: An essential oil from the leaves of the Australian tea tree.

What it does: It helps purify the skin and scalp and keeps oily, blemish-prone skin looking clearer.

Good to know: Can irritate sensitive skin, so patch test first.

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Tranexamic acid

What it is: A brightening ingredient derived from the amino acid lysine.

What it does: It helps reduce the look of dark spots, discolouration and uneven skin tone.

Good to know: Often paired with niacinamide and daily sunscreen.

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Turmeric

What it is: An extract of the turmeric root. Curcumin is its main active compound.

What it does: It acts as an antioxidant and helps skin look calm and radiant.

Good to know: Found in serums, masks and supplements.

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Urea

What it is: A natural moisturising factor found in the skin.

What it does: At low levels it hydrates. At higher levels (10% and up) it also softens and smooths rough, thickened skin.

Good to know: Higher strengths are best for body, hands, feet and elbows rather than the face.

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Vitamin C

What it is: An antioxidant vitamin, used as pure L-ascorbic acid or more stable forms such as ascorbyl glucoside and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

What it does: It helps defend the skin against environmental stress and brighten the look of dull, uneven skin tone.

Good to know: Best used in the morning under sunscreen. Pure vitamin C can tingle and works best kept away from light and air.

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Vitamin E

What it is: An antioxidant vitamin, often listed as tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate.

What it does: It helps protect the skin against environmental stress and keeps it soft and conditioned.

Good to know: Pairs especially well with vitamin C and ferulic acid.

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Vitamin K

What it is: A vitamin used in skin care, often as vitamin K oxide.

What it does: It helps reduce the look of dark circles and discolouration, including after aesthetic procedures.

Good to know: Found in eye creams and post-procedure care.

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Zinc (PCA and gluconate)

What it is: Zinc salts such as zinc PCA and zinc gluconate.

What it does: They help control excess oil and keep oily, blemish-prone skin looking clearer and more balanced.

Good to know: Often paired with niacinamide and salicylic acid.

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Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide

What it is: Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the two mineral (physical) sunscreen filters.

What it does: They sit on the skin and help protect it from UVA and UVB rays. Zinc oxide gives especially broad UVA protection.

Good to know: A good choice for sensitive skin. Reapply at least every 2 hours, and after swimming or sweating.

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Ingredient questions

How do I find products with a specific ingredient?

Type the ingredient into the search box at the top of this page, or tap its letter in the A to Z bar. Each ingredient lists a selection of the products on Suppsco that contain it, with a link to see them all.

Can I use several active ingredients together?

Often, yes. Hydrators such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides and niacinamide combine easily with most routines. Stronger actives such as retinoids, AHAs and BHAs are usually best introduced one at a time, and some are better used at different times of day. If you are unsure, ask one of our therapists.

Why do so many ingredients mention sunscreen?

Exfoliating acids and vitamin A ingredients can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, and sun exposure can undo the results of brightening products. A broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning protects your skin and your routine.

Are these ingredients safe in pregnancy?

Some, such as retinoids, are generally avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Always check with your doctor before starting new active ingredients if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or under medical care.

This guide is for general information about cosmetic ingredients and is not medical advice. Patch test new products and stop use if irritation occurs. If you have a skin condition, are pregnant or breastfeeding, or are taking medication, speak to your doctor before starting new active ingredients.

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